Grade 9
Course ContentSoil fertility
Habari Mwanafunzi! Welcome to the Shamba of Knowledge!
Ever wondered why Farmer Wanjiku's maize stands tall and green, bursting with cobs, while just next door, Farmer Kamau's plants are yellow and stunted? The secret isn't magic; it's hidden right under their feet! The secret is in the soil. Today, we are going to dig deep into one of the most important topics for any successful farmer: Soil Fertility.
Think of your soil like a bank account. You can't keep withdrawing money (nutrients for your crops) without making some deposits (manure, fertilizer). If your account runs dry, your business (the farm) will fail. Let's learn how to keep our soil bank rich and productive!
What Exactly is Soil Fertility?
In simple terms, soil fertility is the ability of the soil to provide essential nutrients to plants in the right amounts and proportions for healthy growth. It’s the soil's "power" to feed your crops.
But wait, there's another important word: Soil Productivity. Are they the same? Not quite!
- Fertility is just about the nutrients in the soil.
- Productivity is the soil's overall ability to produce a good harvest. It includes fertility PLUS other factors like good drainage, enough water, and proper farm management (like weeding).
A soil can be very fertile, but if it's in a drought-prone area like Turkana with no irrigation, it won't be productive. Sawa?
Characteristics of a Fertile Soil (The "Big Five" for Healthy Soil)
A healthy, fertile soil is a happy home for your plant's roots. It should have:
- Good Depth: Deep soil allows roots to grow long and strong, anchoring the plant and searching for water and nutrients.
- Correct pH: Most of our crops, like maize and beans, prefer a slightly acidic to neutral pH (around 6.0 to 7.0). Tea, as you see in Kericho and Limuru, loves more acidic soils.
- Good Drainage & Aeration: Soil should hold water, but not get waterlogged! Roots need to breathe oxygen, just like we do.
- Rich in Nutrients: It must contain all the essential macro-nutrients (like NPK - Nitrogen, Phosphorus, Potassium) and micro-nutrients.
- Full of Life: A healthy soil is alive with earthworms, bacteria, and fungi that help decompose organic matter and make nutrients available.
// ASCII Diagram: Cross-section of a Fertile Soil //
[v v v v v v v] -> Healthy Maize Crop
[| | | | | | |]
|/ / / / / / /| -> Top Soil: Dark, rich in humus & nutrients.
|~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~| -> Good structure, allows air and water.
|o o o o o o o| -> Earthworms and microbes are active here.
|/ / / / / / /|
|-------------|
|:.:.:.:.:.:.:| -> Subsoil: Less organic matter, stores water.
|:.:.:.:.:.:.:| -> Deep roots can reach here.
|-------------|
|# # # # # # #| -> Parent Rock: Where the soil began.
[# # # # # # #]
Image Suggestion: A vibrant, high-contrast photo. The left side shows a lush green maize farm on dark, crumbly, fertile soil. The right side shows a struggling, yellow maize farm on pale, cracked, dry soil. The text "Fertile Soil vs. Infertile Soil" is overlaid.
How Do We Lose Soil Fertility? (The Soil Robbers!)
Our soil bank can be robbed in several ways. We must guard against these thieves!
- Soil Erosion: Wind and water carry away the rich topsoil. This is a big problem on sloped farms if we don't practice terracing.
- Leaching: In high rainfall areas like the Central highlands, heavy rain can wash soluble nutrients (like nitrates) deep down where plant roots can't reach them.
- Monocropping: Planting the same crop (e.g., maize) on the same land year after year. The crop will use up all its favourite nutrients, leaving the soil imbalanced and weak.
- Burning Crop Residues: A common but very bad practice! Burning destroys valuable organic matter and kills the helpful microorganisms in the soil.
- Continuous Cropping: Farming without ever letting the land rest or adding back nutrients. It's like working non-stop without eating!
Keeping Your Soil Happy: How to Maintain and Improve Fertility
Now for the good part! How do we become excellent soil managers? We have many tools in our store.
- Adding Manures:
- Farm Yard Manure (FYM): Well-decomposed mixture of animal dung, urine, and bedding. It's a fantastic all-rounder!
- Compost Manure: Made from decomposed organic materials like kitchen waste, grass cuttings, and crop residues. It turns our waste into "black gold" for the soil.
- Green Manure: Planting a crop, usually a legume like beans, cowpeas or lucerne, and then ploughing it into the soil before it flowers. Legumes are special because they "fix" nitrogen from the air into the soil for free!
- Using Inorganic Fertilizers:
These are manufactured fertilizers that provide specific nutrients. You have probably seen your parents using them. The most common ones are:
- Straight Fertilizers: Supply one major nutrient (e.g., CAN for Nitrogen, Single Superphosphate for Phosphorus).
- Compound Fertilizers: Supply two or more major nutrients (e.g., DAP - Di-Ammonium Phosphate, which supplies both Nitrogen and Phosphorus).
Remember the N-P-K rule! N (Nitrogen) is for leafy growth (Majani), P (Phosphorus) is for root and flower development (Mizizi na Maua), and K (Potassium) is for overall plant health and fruit formation (Afya na Matunda).
- Practicing Crop Rotation: Don't plant the same crop in the same spot every season. A good rotation could be: Maize (heavy feeder) -> Beans (adds nitrogen) -> Potatoes (tuber, uses different nutrients). This confuses pests and balances nutrient use.
- Controlling Soil pH: If the soil is too acidic, we can apply agricultural lime to make it more neutral and unlock nutrients for the plants.
Let's Do Some Maths! Fertilizer Calculation
A farmer is advised to apply 60 kg of Nitrogen per hectare (kg N/ha) to his maize crop during top dressing. He has Calcium Ammonium Nitrate (CAN) fertilizer, which contains 26% Nitrogen. How much CAN should he apply per hectare?
--- STEP-BY-STEP CALCULATION ---
1. What do we know?
- Recommended Nitrogen (N) = 60 kg/ha
- Fertilizer available = CAN
- Percentage of N in CAN = 26%
2. What does 26% N mean?
It means that in every 100 kg of CAN fertilizer, there are 26 kg of actual Nitrogen.
So, 26 kg of N is contained in 100 kg of CAN.
3. Set up the question.
If 26 kg of N is in 100 kg of CAN...
...then how much CAN (let's call it X) do we need to get 60 kg of N?
4. Calculate.
We can set up a simple proportion:
(100 kg CAN / 26 kg N) * 60 kg N = X kg CAN
X = (100 * 60) / 26
X = 6000 / 26
X = 230.77 kg
5. Answer.
The farmer should apply approximately 231 kg of CAN fertilizer per hectare.
A Tale of Two Shambas
Meet two neighbours, Wanjiru and Otieno. Wanjiru makes compost manure from her kitchen waste and cow dung. She rotates her maize with beans and potatoes. After harvesting, she ploughs the maize stalks back into the soil. Her shamba gives her a bumper harvest year after year.
Otieno, on the other hand, plants maize every single season. He burns the stalks after harvesting because he says it's "cleaner". He uses the same fertilizer every time without testing his soil. Over the years, his harvests have become smaller and smaller, and his soil is now hard and pale. Otieno's soil bank account is empty, while Wanjiru's is full!
Who would you rather be? Wanjiru, of course! By understanding soil fertility, you are taking the first step to becoming a smart, successful farmer like her. Your soil is your greatest inheritance; take care of it, and it will take care of you.
Jambo Mwanafunzi! Let's Dig into the Heart of Farming: Soil Fertility
Welcome back to our Agriculture class! Today, we are talking about the most important secret ingredient for a successful farm: fertile soil. Have you ever walked past two shambas (farms) right next to each other? On one side, the maize is tall, green, and promising a bumper harvest. On the other, the plants are small, yellowish, and struggling. The difference? It’s all in the soil! A good farmer is not just a plant expert; they are a soil expert first.
Image Suggestion: A vibrant, wide-angle photograph of a Kenyan farm. On the left side, lush, green, and healthy maize plants stand tall under a clear blue sky. On the right side, separated by a simple path, the maize is stunted, with yellowing leaves, looking weak. In the background, rolling green hills typical of the Kenyan highlands.
What Exactly is Soil Fertility?
In simple terms, soil fertility is the ability of the soil to provide all the necessary nutrients in the right amounts and proportions for a plant to grow, thrive, and give us a good yield. Think of it as a well-stocked kitchen for plants. It has all the food (nutrients), water, and air the plant needs to be healthy.
It's important not to confuse this with soil productivity. Productivity is the actual yield you get. A soil can be fertile (have all the nutrients), but if there's a drought (no water) or a massive pest attack, its productivity will be low. So, fertility is the potential, while productivity is the result.
Characteristics of a Fertile Soil (The "Good Soil" Checklist)
What does this "well-stocked kitchen" look like? A fertile soil has several key features:
- Good Depth: It should be deep enough to allow roots to grow freely and anchor the plant properly. Think of the deep red volcanic soils in Kiambu or Meru.
- Proper Drainage and Aeration: It shouldn't be waterlogged (like a swamp) or too dry. It needs a good balance of air and water in its pore spaces. Clay soils can get waterlogged, while sandy soils drain too fast. A good loam is perfect!
- Adequate Nutrient Supply: This is the big one! It must contain all the essential macro-nutrients (like Nitrogen, Phosphorus, Potassium - NPK) and micro-nutrients (like Iron, Zinc) that plants need.
- Correct Soil pH: Soil can be acidic, neutral, or alkaline. Most of our Kenyan crops, like maize, beans, and sukuma wiki, prefer a slightly acidic to neutral pH (around 6.0 - 7.0). If the soil is too acidic, some nutrients get "locked up" and plants can't use them.
- Plenty of Soil Organisms: It should be alive! Earthworms, bacteria, and fungi are crucial. They decompose organic matter, release nutrients, and improve soil structure. An earthworm is a farmer's best friend!
- Free from Harmful Substances: A fertile soil should not have high concentrations of toxic salts or chemicals that can harm the plants.
How Our Precious Soil Loses Its "Food"
Unfortunately, soil can lose its fertility through various processes, many of which are common in Kenya. Understanding these is the first step to preventing them.
- Soil Erosion: When you see rivers running brown after a heavy rain, that's our topsoil washing away! This is a huge problem in hilly areas. The topsoil is the most fertile layer, and once it's gone, it's gone for a very long time.
- Leaching: In high rainfall areas like the Tea zones of Kericho, excess water moves down through the soil, washing away soluble nutrients like nitrates deep beyond the reach of plant roots.
- Monocropping: This is planting the same crop (e.g., maize) on the same piece of land, season after season. The crop uses the same set of nutrients every time, eventually exhausting them from the soil.
- Continuous Cropping: Farming the land without giving it a rest (a fallow period) means nutrients are constantly being removed without being replenished, leading to soil exhaustion.
- Burning of Vegetation: A common practice when clearing land, but it's very destructive. Burning kills beneficial soil organisms and causes nutrients like Nitrogen and Sulphur to be lost to the atmosphere as gas.
Real-World Scenario: Mama Wanjiku has a small shamba in Murang'a. For ten years, she has only planted maize because it feeds her family and she can sell the surplus. Recently, she noticed her harvests are getting smaller and smaller, even when the rains are good. Her shamba is suffering from the effects of monocropping. The maize has used up most of the Nitrogen in the soil, and now the new plants are struggling.
Keeping Our Soil Healthy and Productive!
Sawa, now for the most important part! How do we, as smart farmers, maintain and even improve the fertility of our soil? Here are the solutions:
1. Adding Manures and Fertilizers
This is like refilling the kitchen pantry for our plants.
- Organic Manures: These come from plant and animal remains.
- Farm Yard Manure (FYM): A mix of animal waste (from cows, goats, chicken) and their bedding material. It's excellent for improving soil structure and adding nutrients slowly.
- Compost Manure: Made from decomposed organic materials like kitchen scraps, grass cuttings, and leaves. Every farmer should have a compost pit!
- Green Manure: Growing specific plants (often legumes like beans or lucerne) and then ploughing them back into the soil while they are still green to add organic matter and nitrogen.
- Inorganic/Artificial Fertilizers: These are manufactured chemicals that provide specific nutrients quickly. Common examples in Kenya are CAN (for Nitrogen), DAP (for Phosphorus), and Muriate of Potash (for Potassium). They are powerful but must be used correctly!
Time for some Farmer's Math! Calculating Fertilizer Application
Let's say a soil test recommends you apply 60 kg of Nitrogen (N) per hectare for your maize crop. The only fertilizer you have is Calcium Ammonium Nitrate (CAN), which is labelled as 26% N. How much CAN do you need to buy for one hectare?
--- FERTILIZER CALCULATION ---
STEP 1: Understand the information.
- Recommended Nitrogen (N) = 60 kg/ha
- Fertilizer Type = CAN
- Nitrogen content in CAN = 26%
STEP 2: Interpret the percentage.
- 26% N means: In every 100 kg of CAN fertilizer, there are 26 kg of actual Nitrogen.
STEP 3: Set up the calculation.
- If 26 kg of N is found in ---> 100 kg of CAN
- Then, 60 kg of N will be found in ---> ? kg of CAN
STEP 4: Cross-multiply to find the answer.
- ? = (60 kg N * 100 kg CAN) / 26 kg N
- ? = 6000 / 26
- ? = 230.77 kg of CAN
ANSWER: You will need to apply approximately 231 kg of CAN fertilizer per hectare to provide the required 60 kg of Nitrogen.
2. Crop Rotation
This is the opposite of monocropping. It involves changing the type of crop grown on a piece of land from season to season in a planned sequence. For example, planting maize (heavy feeder), then beans (which add nitrogen), then potatoes (tuber crop).
Image Suggestion: A clear, simple infographic diagram showing a 4-field crop rotation system. Field 1 has maize. Field 2 has beans (legumes). Field 3 has sukuma wiki (leafy greens). Field 4 is labelled 'Fallow' or has a cover crop. Arrows show how the crops will be rotated to the next field in the following season.
--- Simple 4-Season Crop Rotation Plan ---
+-----------------+ +-----------------+
| YEAR 1: MAIZE | ---> | YEAR 2: BEANS |
| (Heavy Feeder) | | (Nitrogen Fixer)|
+-----------------+ +-----------------+
^ |
| v
+-----------------+ +-----------------+
| YEAR 4: FALLOW | <--- |YEAR 3: POTATOES |
|(Land Rests/Grows| | (Root Crop) |
| a Cover Crop) | | |
+-----------------+ +-----------------+
This system helps to:
- Balance nutrient usage.
- Break pest and disease cycles.
- Improve soil structure.
3. Soil and Water Conservation Methods
To stop erosion and leaching, we can use methods like:
- Terracing: Building step-like ridges on a slope, very common in Central Kenya.
- Contour Ploughing: Ploughing across a slope instead of up and down.
- Mulching: Covering the soil with dry grass or leaves to protect it from rain and sun.
4. Liming to Correct Soil pH
If a soil test shows your soil is too acidic, you can apply agricultural lime (calcium carbonate). This neutralizes the acidity, making nutrients more available to the plants.
And there you have it! Soil fertility is the foundation of our food security. By understanding what makes a soil healthy, what harms it, and how to care for it, you are well on your way to becoming a fantastic and successful farmer. Remember, take care of the soil, and the soil will take care of you. Keep up the great work!
Habari ya Udongo? Welcome to the Heart of the Shamba!
Hello future farming champion! Ever wondered why Mzee Juma's maize in the next shamba looks taller and greener than yours, even though you both planted at the same time? Or why the tea bushes on the slopes of Mt. Kenya are so lush? The secret, my friend, is not magic – it's all in the soil! Think of soil as a bank account for your crops. If you keep withdrawing (planting) without depositing (adding nutrients), soon the account will be empty. Today, we're going to learn how to keep that soil bank account rich and full. This is the lesson on Soil Fertility!
Image Suggestion: A vibrant, sunlit photo of a healthy Kenyan shamba. In the foreground, a farmer is smiling, holding up a handful of dark, rich soil. In the background, lush green maize plants and beanstalks are thriving. The style should be realistic and hopeful.
What Exactly is Soil Fertility?
In simple terms, soil fertility is the ability of the soil to provide all the essential nutrients that a plant needs, in the right amounts and proportions, for healthy growth and high yields. It's the soil's power to support life!
A fertile soil is like a well-stocked kitchen for a plant. It has all the ingredients (nutrients) ready for the plant to "cook" up its food through photosynthesis. An infertile soil is like an empty kitchen – the plant will starve!
The Plant's Menu: Essential Nutrients
Plants are picky eaters! They need a balanced diet of different nutrients, which we group into two categories:
- Macronutrients: These are needed in large quantities. They are the "ugali, sukuma na nyama" of the plant world.
- Micronutrients: These are needed in very small, trace amounts, but are still vital. Think of them as the "pinch of salt" or vitamins.
The Big Three (Primary Macronutrients) - N-P-K
You've probably seen bags of fertilizer at the local agrovet with numbers like "23:23:0". These numbers represent the percentage of the "Big Three": Nitrogen (N), Phosphorus (P), and Potassium (K).
- Nitrogen (N): The 'Leaf Maker'. It's responsible for the green, leafy growth of a plant. Lots of Nitrogen means healthy, dark green leaves for your sukuma wiki and maize.
- Phosphorus (P): The 'Root and Fruit Maker'. It is crucial for strong root development, flowering, and fruit production. Tomatoes, beans, and maize cobs need plenty of Phosphorus.
- Potassium (K): The 'Plant's Guard'. It helps the plant fight diseases, manage water, and contributes to the overall health and strength of the plant stem. It's very important for root crops like potatoes and sweet potatoes.
Characteristics of a Fertile Soil
So, what does this "five-star" soil look like and feel like? A fertile soil has several key characteristics:
- Good Depth: It should be deep enough to allow plant roots to grow long and strong, searching for water and nutrients without hitting rock (murram). The deep volcanic soils of the Rift Valley are a perfect example!
- Good Drainage and Aeration: It should hold enough water for the plant but also allow excess water to drain away. If a soil is waterlogged, the roots can't breathe!
GOOD DRAINAGE POOR DRAINAGE (Waterlogged)
=================== =========================
[ Air ] [ Water ] [~ Water ~ Water ~ Water ~]
[~Soil~] [~Soil~] [~ Water ~ Water ~ Water ~]
| [~Soil~] [~Soil~] [~Soil~]
V (Roots can breathe) (Roots suffocate!)
[~Soil~] [~Soil~] [~Soil~] [~Soil~] [~Soil~]
=================== =========================
- Correct Soil pH: pH is the measure of how acidic or alkaline your soil is. Most Kenyan crops, like maize and beans, prefer a slightly acidic to neutral pH (around 6.0 to 7.0). If the soil is too acidic or too alkaline, nutrients get "locked up" and plants can't access them, even if they are in the soil! For example, tea grows very well in the acidic soils around Kericho and Limuru.
- High in Organic Matter (Humus): This is the dark, spongy material from decomposed plants and animal manure (mbolea). It's super important! It helps the soil hold water, improves its structure (making it soft and easy for a jembe to work), and slowly releases nutrients for the plants.
- Full of Life: A fertile soil is crawling with life! Earthworms, fungi, and bacteria are the "underground farmers." They break down organic matter and create tunnels that help air and water move through the soil.
Image Suggestion: A close-up, cross-section diagram of soil. It should clearly label: 1. A layer of dark topsoil rich with humus and earthworms. 2. A plant with deep, healthy roots penetrating the soil. 3. Pockets of air and water between crumbly soil particles.
How Soil Loses Its Fertility
Our soil bank account can run low. This happens mainly through:
- Leaching: When there is heavy rainfall, essential nutrients are dissolved in the water and washed deep down beyond the reach of plant roots. This is common in the high-rainfall areas of Western Kenya.
- Soil Erosion: This is the biggest thief! The valuable, fertile topsoil is carried away by wind or rainwater, leaving behind poor, less productive subsoil. When you see the Tana River running brown, you are seeing tonnes of fertile topsoil being washed away to the ocean!
- Monocropping: Planting the same crop on the same piece of land, season after season. A crop like maize is a heavy feeder of Nitrogen. If you only plant maize, you will quickly deplete the soil's Nitrogen supply.
- Overgrazing: Too many animals on a small piece of land eat all the vegetation and compact the soil with their hooves, leading to erosion.
- Burning Crop Residues: Some farmers burn the maize stalks after harvest. This is a very bad practice! It destroys valuable organic matter and kills the helpful microorganisms in the soil.
A Story from the Shamba: Mzee Kamau's Discovery
Mzee Kamau had been farming maize on his two-acre plot for years. But he noticed something worrying. Every year, his harvest was a little smaller. His maize stalks were shorter, and the leaves were turning a pale yellow. He was using the same seeds and planting at the same time. He visited the local agricultural extension officer, who took a soil sample. The results came back: the soil was very low in Nitrogen and was becoming too acidic. The officer explained that years of planting only maize (monocropping) and using the same type of fertilizer had drained the soil. Mzee Kamau learned he needed to change his ways to bring his shamba back to life.
Let's Make Our Soil Rich Again! (Maintaining & Improving Fertility)
The good news is that we can deposit back into our soil bank account! Here are the best ways to do it:
1. Use of Manures (Organic Matter is King!)
- Farm Yard Manure (FYM): Manure from cows, goats, and chickens is excellent. It must be well-decomposed before you apply it, otherwise it can "burn" the young plants.
- Compost Manure: You can make your own! Layer kitchen scraps, grass cuttings, and other plant materials in a pit or heap. Turn it regularly, and in a few months, you'll have rich, dark compost.
- Green Manure: Plant a "cover crop" like beans, cowpeas, or desmodium. Before they produce seeds, plough them back into the soil. Legumes are special because they "fix" Nitrogen from the air into the soil for free!
2. Application of Inorganic Fertilizers
Sometimes, the soil needs a quick boost that manure alone can't provide. This is where inorganic fertilizers like CAN, DAP, or NPK come in. BUT, it's very important to use them correctly! Always try to get a soil test done first to know exactly what your soil needs.
Let's do some math!
**Problem:** A farmer is advised to apply 60 kg of Nitrogen (N) per hectare (ha).
The fertilizer available is Calcium Ammonium Nitrate (CAN), which contains 26% Nitrogen.
How many kilograms of CAN should the farmer apply per hectare?
**Step 1: Understand the fertilizer.**
100 kg of CAN fertilizer contains 26 kg of Nitrogen.
**Step 2: Set up the calculation.**
If 26 kg of N is in 100 kg of CAN,
Then 60 kg of N will be in 'X' kg of CAN.
**Step 3: Cross-multiply.**
X = (60 kg N * 100 kg CAN) / 26 kg N
**Step 4: Calculate the result.**
X = 6000 / 26
X = 230.77 kg
**Answer:** The farmer needs to apply approximately 231 kg of CAN fertilizer per hectare.
3. Smart Farming Practices
- Crop Rotation: Don't plant the same crop in the same place every year! Rotate them. For example: Plant maize (heavy feeder) in season 1, then beans (which add Nitrogen) in season 2, then maybe potatoes (which use different nutrients) in season 3. This breaks pest cycles and balances nutrient use.
- Liming: If a soil test shows your soil is too acidic, you can apply agricultural lime to raise the pH and make it more neutral.
- Soil Conservation: Practice methods like making terraces on slopes, contour ploughing, and planting cover crops to prevent our precious topsoil from eroding away.
Our Soil, Our Future
There you have it! Soil fertility isn't a mystery; it's a science we can all understand and practice. By treating our soil with care—feeding it with organic matter, using fertilizers wisely, and protecting it from erosion—we are not just growing crops. We are ensuring we have food for our families and our country for many years to come. A fertile soil is the greatest inheritance we can leave for future generations. So go on, be a soil champion!
Pro Tip
Take your own short notes while going through the topics.